Tonkatsu Wako; Irresistible Crispy Cutlet

Central World Branch

If you're an avid Tonkatsu fan, you should already know about this place. I am hesitant to make this review public due to the potential increase in wait time to get into the restaurant. One of my friends refused to tell his mom about the restaurant out of fear she would make it her daily canteen. I joke, but during peak meal hours, you will have to wait for a seat. Granted, they are very efficient, and even a 15+ person queue is usually about half an hour of wait time. I've tried three of their locations: Terminal 21, Siam Square, and Central World, and all of them have consistently high-quality control.

Although Tonkatsu originated in Japan during the Meiji Period (1868–1912), its inspiration came from côtelette de veau, a French-breaded veal cutlet dish. While inspired, the Japanese used the less oily method of cooking tempura as well as cheaper pork as the main protein; thus, tonkatsu was born (which literally translates to pork cutlet). Since then, it has evolved with many different ingredients applied with the breading and frying technique, as well as dishes using the Tonkatsu at its core, such as katsu curry and katsu sando.

Large Tonkatsu set with Chawanmushi

I am a passionate enjoyer of tonkatsu and its variants. Tonkatsu Wako is the best version of this dish I've tried in Bangkok. It starts with that perfect golden crust, which is crispy and not too oily. They use their own fresh breadcrumbs, you can see entire loaves of milk bread being displayed in the kitchen, and the flavour of the bread comes through. So even before you pierce the surface, you are greeted with an incredibly tasty coating. Once inside, you have a juicy pork cutlet, no matter the variation you choose. It is well-seasoned while still remaining pure and straightforward. My favourite way of eating it is in combination with the slightly sour pickle, bulldog sauce, and mustard, which balances the rich Tonkatsu on top of the freshly steamed rice. It is a bite you can't stop eating, and it keeps you coming back repeatedly.

Pork, Shrimp and Croquette

Their entire menu is made up of different sets, with many options such as curry or shrimp katsu or you can order extras a la carte. I personally enjoy ordering extra shrimp. Each set consists of unlimited rice, unlimited cabbage, and one serving of miso soup. The rice is freshly steamed and brought to your table piping hot. Japanese rice is by far my favourite type of rice; I love the slight stickiness to it. Then the thinly sliced cabbage is a nice starter with the two types of salad sauces to choose from. To end the meal, I love their miso soup; unlike most restaurants, they don’t make it too salty, and they add extra ingredients to the soup for extra umami and texture, like daikon, carrot and pork.

If it was healthy and convenient for where I lived, I could eat tonkatsu there every day. The sheer quantity and variety you get from a single meal are profound. Yes, it can be on the pricey side for some sets (such as with shrimp or croquettes), but I think it's one of the most worthwhile meals, especially for the unlimited rice and cabbage alone. I am always satisfied when eating at Wako and sometimes struggle to finish my food. I could continue to write extensively about this place, but I think the only way for you to understand it is to try it yourself. I've brought many friends to Wako, and I have only heard extremely high praise; it is definitely in the top 5 places to eat for me.